Back to our visit to Kathmandu: We all arrived safely and excited about the trip (though some of us a little worse for the wear ;-) The Radisson is an Oasis in the middle of the chaos that is Kathmandu with spa, swimming pool, bar and air conditioning! Although many have written about the filth and squalor of Kathmandu, we arrived during the 15 day Dashain festival and although the city was as dirty as some other Third World countries some of us have visited, the pollution was not as bad as we were expecting (since so many people were out of the city back in their own villages) and the crowds were remarkably reduced. We of course visited the normal tourist attractions such as the major Hindu temple to Shiva, the god of Destruction, and its cremation pyres along the banks of the sacred river Vishnula, and the biggest Buddhist Stuba in Nepal (supposedly containing a relic of the first Buddha) and it's monastery which was much more ornate if only as a result of its state of repair compared to those in Tibet. Interestingly the Hindus and Buddhists seem to live in relative harmony in Nepal even being able to enter each other’s Temples although we were not allowed to enter the Hindu temples we visited. We also went to Bactapur a city originally built in the early 1400s, one of the 3 kingdoms that simultaneously inhabited the Kathmandu Valley. The preservation of the city, its architecture, wood carvings and temples, was remarkable (not to mention the erotic carvings reminiscent of India’s Kama Sutra). We all particularly enjoyed some western food like fries and hamburgers but quickly moved on to tasty Nepalese currys, dall bhat, and kebabs.
We met early to take a “three hour drive” to Ang's house. We rode in a Toyota pickup; 5 up front, 4 in the back in the covered, steel framed truck bed. In this vehicle, seat belts were a distant memory and our mothers never would have let us ride in the back ;-)
The road out of Kathmandu was bumpy and only partially paved. The road in the countryside surpassed many of Colorado's 4 wheel drive trails. The road was washed out in many areas and the drive was done in 4 wheel low for long distances. There was a more direct route which Ang can walk in about 2.5 hours in good conditions but it was washed out by the monsoons and is now longer usable by jeeps.
We felt like characters in an adventure movie. We missed other vehicles by inches, past cows and water buffalo being led down the street, women carrying loads twice as big as they are, and incredible scenery. Buses with people piled on top, vehicles stopped and stalled in random locations, and villages filled with people flowing into the street added to the adventure. It is a certainty that anything but the most minor of accidents would be very serious.
After six hours of being beat up by the road, picking up 6 of the driver's relatives (piling 10 of us into a space for less than 6) and helping pull a stuck truck out the mud, we arrived in Ang's village of Batsey, which means "windy". Ang's village, with most of them seemingly related to Ang in some way, met us in force. I believe both villagers and guests were thrilled with the visit.
The tour of Ang's house was fascinating. The kitchen area contained 3 chickens in cages, dried corn, and a cooking area with a small open wood fire. In order to maximize heating and to protect the wood against dry rot, there is no chimney. Smoke escapes though openings and windows in the second floor. Since we are fairly tall compared to the Nepalese, our heads were in the smoke and we found breathing uncomfortable. The smoke although helpful for the villagers in some respects unfortunately also leads to cataracts and respiratory problems. The second floor is used for grain storage and sleeping. The second floor porch is also used to dry corn and for additional sleeping. It is quite comfortable this time of year. Running water is available just outside the house.
The sitting area outside is very pleasant with incredible views. We had a wonderful lunch of fruits and vegetables, dall bhat, two freshly killed chickens, rice, and a fermented millet drink. Ang's family was very gracious and we were all grateful for the opportunity to visit.
Rather than endure the 6 hour drive back, we chose to take the Toyota as far as it would go on the unpassable, short route to Kathmandu and walk the remaining distance. We chose this in spite of the late hour. Despite the late hour, our driver still stopped numerous times to chat with relatives and friends along the way.
The Gods were conspiring against us. When the Toyota got to the top, but before we got to the trailhead, two of the front leaf springs broke. This resulted in much more walking than planned. The path through the forest was very pleasant. The temperature was perfect, the moon was out, and because we were in a rain forest preserve, very quiet. The path was rocky with slippery mud, hidden holes, and hidden drop offs. The tiny combination lighter/flashlights that Ang got for us provided just enough light to allow us to survive the 4 hour hike without a serious injury.
We were all tired at the end of the day but glad we had experienced the adventure.
Tom and Dan
